As the sunrise breaks over Playa Manzanillo, a cup of beach vendor coffee in hand, I take in the serenity and beauty of this place. With seven beaches in total, the sunrise on Playa Manzanillo is one of the many beach scenes I would encounter in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico.
Beautifully clear skies are the norm in Puerto Escondido during this time of year. Although they make for lovely days on the beach, those sunny skies are not typically the best for dramatic photos. As a result, I welcomed a day of overcast skies during a visit to Playa Coral, a small and quiet beach in Puerto Escondido.
A day spent on Playa Coral is a peaceful one, as it is one of the least visited of the seven beaches in Puerto Escondido. Arriving early rewards you with the sound of the breeze bristling through the palm trees, aquamarine-colored waves crashing into golden-hued sand, and not much else. Sublime.
On this day, rays of streaming sunlight, mixed with sea mist and rocks, created a colorful and dramatic backdrop for the lifeguard tower in the distance.
Later in the day, the golden hues of sunset, combined with the sea mist and rock formations, can give the beach an almost alien look and feel.
Playa Bococho, which can be found just on the other side of the rocks from Playa Coral, is one of the larger beaches in Puerto Escondido. Large enough that it never felt crowded, despite being more popular.
The larger Playa Bococho provides ample space for kite flying. It is also the location of Puerto Escondido’s sea turtle conservation efforts.
Friendly beach dogs add to the experience on the beaches of Puerto Escondido.
Puerto Escondido has long been known as a surfing town. As a result, both novice and expert surfers can be seen on the beaches and in the water daily. The large Playa Zicatella, with its strong and dangerous surf, is the location of surf competitions and is frequented by the more experienced surfers. However, beaches such as the smaller and more calm Playa Carazalillo are preferred by the less experienced surfers and those receiving surfing lessons.
My time in Puerto Escondido was filled with relaxing days on the beach, seaside dining on freshly caught seafood, enjoying wonderfully rustic meals in Centro, and engaging with local folks and foreigners alike. My visit of two and a half months provided a lot of time to observe and reflect beyond the infatuation that one experiences during a short stay in beautiful coastal towns like this.
Puerto Escondido is indeed a wonderful place. But, I fear for its future. Once considered a hidden gem, I can confidently say this is no longer the case.
Puerto Escondido has definitely been discovered.
I have observed a large amount of home construction while here. In fact, I was alerted to the plans of a large condo building that is slated to be built adjacent to the sea turtle sanctuary. It is my understanding that the infrastructure of Puerto Escondido is not capable of handling this rapid rate of development. The quality of life and ecological impacts are of great concern.
In addition, some of the more popular and picturesque beaches have been completely lined with beach vendors and can become quite crowded. Along with this comes the unfortunate consequence of increasing amounts of trash and cigarette butts left on the beaches. I have witnessed this behavior from both foreigners and Mexicans. The lack of awareness and concern is shocking. It saddens me and is completely unnecessary.
I am in no way suggesting that people should stop visiting the wonderful town of Puerto Escondido. The livelihood of many people who call this place home depends upon tourist dollars.
In addition, I’m not so gullible to think places won’t change. Once they are discovered the developments and tourism will come. It’s not my place as a visitor to determine if this is right or wrong. What I can tell you is there is a lot of concern from the local residents regarding the environmental and cultural impact of what is happening. I do hope Puerto Escondido’s development can be managed in a way that keeps it beautiful and maintains its uniqueness.
When you do visit, I encourage you to be mindful of the impact your visit will make. I respectfully encourage all of us to be mindful of the impact we have on all the places we visit. Small, seemingly insignificant changes by all of us can indeed have a large positive impact.
Please follow this link to learn more about an organization dedicated to the conservation of natural resources and culture on the coasts of the state of Oaxaca, Mexico: https://vivemar.com.mx/